Shop Timetestedtool's tool Store ......... And The Etsy Shop

By Mark Webster

Part 1 (08/01/2020)

The following is an outline (sorry a little cryptic) from a 2-part presentation I made recently on the Facebook page A Plane Life   The two “informal” sessions are included in the posted videos. They are long, but if you have the patience I cover all of what is in this outline.

My planes

I do this as a HOBBY, I am not a machinist  and don’t have machinist’s tools

Starter planes not for collectors


High performing

Well taken care of… but not “brand new” looking

Getting starter planes.

I look for Types 6-15 prefer Types 9-15


Hairline crack on sides, or at ends of throat toss

            Deep pitting

Pitting on back of iron

Reasonable thickness on sides allows cosmetic adjustments

Shipping is often much higher than necessary and a killer.

When Plane arrives

Save packing material

Inspect for hairline cracks sides and mouth

1 Showing rip at mouth

Microscope or penetrant testing

Correct parts for Type?


Removing Rust dirt and Paint/Japanning



Wire wheel

Bead blaster most efficient

Harbor Freight floor standing blast cabinet.  It has been upgraded using

2 Tacoma Co upgrade kits

I have installed foot pedals for light and vacuum

Frog and Body

Stripping using bead blasting cabinet

No7 glass bead

150G fractured glass.

<= 40 lbs pressure

Pre-scrape if difficult

 ½“ chisel (sharp and careful not to scratch with corners.)

Avoid areas that will not be painted with 150G and higher pressure.

Follow w/ No 7 glass bead 20-30 lbs

Soften painted surfaces, and de-rust / clean all areas

3 Showing stripped bodies

Unpainted larger parts:

Lever cap, iron, cap iron

20-30 lbs No 7 glass bead – de-rust and clean

Wire wheel after

4 Completed parts after blast and wire wheel

Small parts –

5 Holder with threads

Helps clean screw slots

                        20-30 lbs No 7 bead

Fine wire wheel also wire cone

            Machined surfaces

            Posts for wood,

vice grips for small post and hold large post in hand

brass nuts held on large post


Do tops with plyers then flip and vice grips holding tops to do threads

            Horseshoe clip and washers


Brass depth adjuster

            Low pressure glass bead to clean or walnut shells

            “Jig” Special threaded rod and steel nut, and hand drill

6 Showing knobs and “jig”

7 Fixture in action

8 Applying Brasso

9 Applying Brasso

10 0000 steel wool and abrasive wheel on drill  (not using cloth any more)

11 Spinning away

12 Paper towel to clean and buff

13 All done

14 All done


Priming only here

Prevents rust during refurb process. Newly exposed metal can rust quickly.

Avoid damaging final finish

Frog primed later

Minimize Frog washer damage

Rust less likely on the frog

Will describe masking, primer and finishing techniques later


Modified Belt sander

15 Showing modified Sander and lapping plate

Modified the platen

Graphite removed

3/16” glass

carpet tape fiberglass


Zirconia alumina

Norton Blaze coral ceramic 60G

Best belts

Zirconia 15 min

Blaze 50 min

Write # of  minutes used with Sharpie on belt to keep track how long used

Pressure helps on Zirconia and ceramic belts

60G 80G and 120G

Dust control

Foot pedal

            Prevents dipping  

16 Foot pedal and general setup

Foot pedal to control on and off

220V discussion

Initial flattening process      

Frog attached (to pre-flatten and lap)

17 Showing effect of frog paws pushing down when tightened.

Plane on belt – foot pedal on

Cover entire belt, plane parallel long axis

Diagonal NO

Warming up… peddle off

THEN remove plane. Reduces dips

18 Showing plane on sander

Safety risk using Pedal

Don’t over heat

                        Rotate bodies

                        Table saw heat sink

Clean up Plane sides

Need enough material

90˚ sides? get a shooting plane. Originals not really 90˚

120G Zirconia

Final hand sand

CRC 3-36 to paper towel then plane



Lapping Plate

Granite flat

3/8” glass

Aluminum on glass

Make sure your flat

Precision straight edge

Support surface for the plate. Shims?


3M Stikit Gold

Best but expensive

Easy removal glass or granite



Glue too aggressive on glass or granite

Length80GCost wCost
Klingspor retail10$10.95$7.99$18.94$1.89
3M Stikit Gold25$52.96$0.00$52.96$2.12
Norton Gold25$28.99$4.99$33.98$1.36
Porter Cable10$12.99$0.00$12.99$1.30

$0 shipping is with Prime

I have not used Norton Gold or Porter Cable.

Links for the sandpaper above:


3M Stikit Gold

Norton Gold


Mods to allow using Klingspor

19 Lapping plate set up

Klingspor is manageable on aluminum + paste wax

            Paste wax aluminum every other strip.

3/8 Glass + ¼”  aluminum  plate 4” x 36”  $37 with shipping

Carpet tape

Flat support surface

Confirm flat

Precision straight edge

Reverse lapped aluminum No 7 LN + 3M Stikit

Confirmed end point with precision straight edge and  0.0015” feeler gauge

Cleaned No 7 afterwards 😃


20 Showing actual lapping

Sharpie Grid pattern on bottom PENCIL may be good alternative still evaluating

80G 5 sets of 30 laps

After 30 use magnet remove iron grit

Once flat 120 180 (220) grits. Scotch-brite Maroon pad

Fine file sharp edges then 220G



Loose lateral adjuster Fix


21 Shows detail of jig and basic use

Tune bedding surface for plane iron

Sandpaper and granite flat

22 Shows process of lapping

Will come back to frog later

            Need tuned iron first



hammer tap on ¾” birch ply or twist it straight in vise. Parallel clamps

Verify flat on granite flat

Pre-flatten back

Flat and damage free

120 G on sander w/ glass platen

Jigs for this

23 Jigs for initial flattening on sander

24 Getting ready to present iron to sander

25 Jig on the sander


Place jig/iron

Foot pedal on run few seconds

Foot pedal off

Once stopped remove iron.

       This avoids dip

Rotate the irons so they will cool between bursts of sanding.

26 Initial flattening complete

Square iron and add new bevel

Flatten reference side of iron before marking right angle

27 Shows from making a reference edge to grinding bevel

Mark 90˚ from Reference side low enough to remove damage and old bevel

Oneway Wolverine grinding stands (versus Veritas)

Steel not aluminum (wear)

More stable


01                                25˚ primary and 30˚ secondary

A2 and PMV-11           25˚ or 30˚ primary and 33˚-35˚ secondary

28 Showing Geiger’s Tru N Dress


Does the frog sit properly?

29 Shows jig and checking for improper bedding angle

Skewed iron with everything centered

File new bedding angle on frog bottom

Frog needs to be lower on the side where the iron is projecting less

Jig used to keep paws co-planer to rear machined flat Types 9+


30 Shows filing frog and resulting correction

Set up jig adding shims to bring sandpaper to touch paws that establishes original relationship between 2 planes. (Not hand planes here) ha ha

Sharpie the machined flats

Using parallel clamps file lowering appropriate side on the flats

Clean up rear flat on granite flat with 80 grit

Use jig to finish paws

Recheck in plane

repeat until iron projects evenly

31 Shows diagram for jig


32 Shows plane cross section


Final flatten back

33 Shows flattening on granite flat to 320G

Lap at 80G or 120G until flat, sharpie

Single direction lapping

Once flat 120, 180 220, 320 removing scratch patterns for each.

Polish the back

On freshly flattened stones.

34 Moving through the stones

Lap both directions keep flat

Go through thought 1000, 1200, 2000, 5000, 8000. Removing abrasive patterns of previous grits.

1200 and 2000 are added here to speed process, not used in daily sharpening.

Back should not touch earlier stones once polished unless there is damage.

Final primary Bevel

35 Finetune primary and hone secondary bevel

To control getting a straight uncambered edge

36 Showing problem w center wheel guides

Avoiding wheel track to insure flat edge

37 Showing solution for center wheel (reusing lapping sandpaper here)

38 Showing a nice secondary bevel

Camber or no camber

I don’t follow traditional philosophy about fine tuning or not based on plane size. I highly tune all the same.

Minute camber on No 5 and smaller. No camber on 6 and up

I use Chris Schwarz’s method for cambering. See at end of this document.


39 Showing tuning the cap iron


If plane is performing well… then final mask and paint


Wash and rinse primer— washing soda

Blow completely dry

40 Showing washing


Single edge razors

#11 blades for X-Acto knives



Scotch Blue Original masking tape, ½” ¾” 2”

Masking pre-Type 9

41 Show technique for frog flats

Masking Type 10 and later

42 Technique frog top       

43 More

44 Technique frog bottom

45 More

Masked bodies

46 Eye candy masked bodies

Masked frogs

47 Eye candy masked frogs


Turn-table easier

48 Showing video of using turn table during spaying a coat of primer

Prime frog (hand held) Flop the Y adjusting lever back and forth

Mix cans of matt 3 mins (or greenish)

1 coat Primer

2 coats Matt Black

1 coat Matt Clear

30-60 mins between coats

            Remove masking 1-2 hrs

            Next day remove paint from top edges of sides

            Cure 2 weeks

Finishing materials Links


Matt Black

Matt Clear

Part 2 (07/25/2020)

From last week

Reference for Screw sizes

Victor Machinery is now Wholesale Tool the old phone # will work 800-723-5359


Lever cap screw          9/32-24 Tap #0307-1015,

They don’t sell die

Here is place in Canada

Cap iron Screw           5/16-18 Tap #0329-0041

5/16-18 Die #0535-0115

Brass adjusting nut    LH 9/32-24 die and tap

They don’t sell, I had mine custom made from Tapco

Frog screws                 12-20 Tap #0307-0796 They have 200 on B.O since Jan

                                    12-20 Die #0536-0086 They have 200 on B.O since Jan

Frog adjusting screw  1/4-24 Tap #0307-0003

1/4-24 Die #0504-0185

Handle toe screw       12-20

Handle and knob bolt 12-20

Frog adjusting plate   7/32-24 Tap #0307-0915

      Screw                    7/32-24 Die #0504-2570

Some feel you can use 7/32″-20Tpi Whitworth form instead of a 12-20. I have not tried it.

Discuss camber

            Chris Schwarz’s method at bottom of this document.

            No 3,4,5 very minor

            No 6,7 no camber


Spraying frog…. flop Y back and forth

Removing tape in a couple of hours so not brittle


Writing time used on belts with sharpie

                        Keep track of belt use

Hand lapping:

            Spay blue vs sharpie vs pencil

Another sandpaper thanks Sean updated above comparison.

Rhynostick 80 Grit.  $1.08/Yrd including shipping

Good price

Trying… ok so far

Grinding wheels

Norton 3x blue 80 grit

Inserts for grinding wheel

Grinding at 90˚ to reduce length of iron

Holding machinists squares to evaluate the end of the cutting iron for squareness

Structural Difference between planes Type 8 and earlier versus Type 9 and later (Cut away side views)

Showing how frog interfaces to body


50 Tapping out the pin and repairing a lateral adjuster

Classic view of plane size and level of fine tuning. All mine the same.

Microscopic views of cutting edge after using sandpaper


Side view of frog, iron, cap iron and lever cap showing pressure points


How long does it take to  hone frog bedding surface


Discussed method for removing depth adjuster bolt.

Could sacrifice a nut shorten and split.

Loctite, (heat if have to remove)


Strip w/ lacquer thinner and maroon Scotch-brite pads wear gloves

Cracks partial breaks …. finish the break


54 Oily wood epoxy for areas to receive stress

2 Ton Epoxy for lower stress like replacing tops

5 min for cosmetic

Mix with rosewood dust if gaps


Severely broken tops

55 Eye candy of broken tops

Remove tops on table saw (safer on bandsaw)

Base against fence

Cut at front point

56 Eye candy tops removed

57 Matching color and grain for tops

I use Brazilian Rosewood if I have it, also Indian, Bolivian and Honduran. Turning blanks is a source 1.5”x 1.5 x 3” increments.

This wood is toxic wear breathing protection

58 Showing gluing on new tops

59 Showing using patterns shaping tops

60 Eye candy lots of patterns

61 Showing making new hole for nut

62 Showing drilling post hole and more shaping

63 Showing more shaping sanding and filling

64 Showing blending color and finishing adjusting nut

65 Eye candy repaired totes ready for finishing

Clean Middle Breaks

Clean surfaces with lacquer thinner and brass brush

Glue with oily wood epoxy

66 Adding support dowels

Old or Ragged Middle Breaks

67 Showing Part 1 of repair….. patterns, removing section on bandsaw and gluing new section

68 Showing Part 2 of repair to completion

69 Showing finished repair


70 Eye Candy Knobs completed

71 Shows Knob side repair

72 Shows splits in knobs

73 Shows punch to split

74 Shows result of punch

75 Shows often multiple splits

76 Shows trimming acid brush

77 Shows taping multiple break

Glue in a series of steps, break glue…break at next crack glue and so on

78 Shows using zip tie on multiple breaks.

79 Shows clamping single break

80 Eye candy glued knobs

81 Eye candy knobs using paper with numbers to keep track of which plane each knob belonged to

82 “Jig” for sanding knob

83 knob mounted  on drill press I use the lathe now

84 Lath set up for knob

85 Video knob sawdust “Black Hole Dust Catcher”

86 Aid for spraying knob

87 Eye candy finished knobs

Nut height (Tote and knob)

controlled with washer

88 Showing problem with deep nut holes

89 Showing after adding washers

90 Showing washers that fit

91 Showing you have to drill out the hole a little

            92 If hole too deep make a plug


Blend repairs (if needed) with General Finishes Water Based Dyes. Med and Dark Brown.

220G w/ grain

Knobs I use the lathe and go up to 320 and maroon scotch-brite

¼ dowel and blue tape to hold parts while spraying

4 coats of Deft Clear Wood Finish Satin

0000 Steel wool sheds…. Sand between coat with

Hand rub final coat


When paint cured fit tote and knob

Final performance test

Other Topics

Repair of lazy lever cap

93 Showing removing original rivet

            Flatten and/or reverse the spring plate

94 Showing finishing repair

95 Showing final result

96 Showing adding glass to backs of stones  for longer use ¼”thick glass cut to size. Silicon to back of dry stone

97 Showing making new posts for tote and knob

98 Showing removing Y adjuster from frog

For red Loctite, use heat to remove

99 Showing technique to reinforce area around front screw of Totes with a brass ring

Another repair is to cut slot out and insert wood


I generally use Chris Schwarz’s method to camber. From his book Handplane Essentials:

With a Honing Guide Make curved cutting edges using finger pressure.

A curved cutting edge is critical to most operations with your bench planes. The curve prevents the corners of the iron from digging into your work, and it allows you to correct the flatness of the face or edge of a board. But how do you create this curve, sometimes called a “camber” with a honing guide? There are lots of valid ways to create the curve. Here’s how I do it. I start with a #1,000-grit water stone. This stone cuts quickly enough to shape an edge or remove small nicks. Clamp your cutter in your honing guide and then (mentally) divide its edge into five “positions” (see the photo above). The trick to creating a curve is to put finger pressure at each position. At position “1,” put your fingers firmly against the corner and sharpen the corner for 10 strokes. Then move your fingers to the other corner (position “2”) and go for another 10 strokes. Then, at positions “3” and “4,” go for seven strokes. Then do a few strokes in the center at position “5.” Now check your work with a square. You need to learn what the curve should look like for each of your planes. Here are the basic principles: If the iron is bedded at a high angle greater than 45°, you need less curve. If the iron is bedded at a lower angle such as 12° or 20°, you need more curvature to get the same effect. And what is the desired effect? You want to take the widest shaving possible without the corners of the cutter digging in. There is math here. Having a .005″ arc-to-chord curve at 45° results in a curve of .0035″ being exposed out of the mouth. (If you have a bevel-up plane bedded at 12°, the same .005″ arc-to-chord curve will result in .001″ curve being exposed in the mouth – thanks to woodworker Rob Porcaro for the formulas.) The truth is you need to learn what the right curve looks like when you show the cutting edge to a straightedge. If there is too much curve, sharpen some more in the middle (position 5) to flatten the curve. If the curve is too flat, add more finger pressure or strokes at the corners. When you have a satisfactory curve, advance to the polishing grits (#4,000 and then #8,000) and repeat the same regimen. The polishing grits will remove less metal, but you definitely can increase or decrease the curvature while polishing. It takes a little practice to find the right curvature for your plane, but the rewards are enormous: Shimmering surfaces with a sensuous, scalloped and touchable texture. It’s worth the effort.

PUT FINGER PRESSURE AT EACH station and count your strokes.

Be sure to watch the sharpening stone –

it will tell you where metal is being removed.

________________ As an Amazon associate, we earn income from qualifying purchases when you click on a link. Your link clicks help us fund our website. ________________

One comment

Leave a Reply