Making of a Krenov Style Smoother

Don

10 years ago

This plane will be a normal size smoother.

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Since I agree with it 100 %, Copy and paste is faster than typing it out.

—45 degrees: Recommended for work on softwoods.
—47 ½ degrees: A Norris original angle. Recommended for work on soft or hard woods.
—50 degrees: Recommended for work on hard woods.
—55 degrees: Recommended for work on difficult woods, such as extra curly wood.

So the first thing I did was find the body. A piece of reclaimed chestnut looked to fit the bill. I cut the piece about an 1/8” to 3/16” wider than the blade I intend to use. I plan to make this a 50 degree bed, so the bed was cut at 50 degrees, and the front piece at 45 degrees. The front piece can vary. I know David Finch recommends 62 degrees, but I like a little more room to get the shavings out.

I then found a piece of scrap Bloodwood for the sides. I split it down the middle for the two sides. If you want to make a plane that looks like a seamless piece of wood, cut the sides from each side of a complete block. That process is laid out here. Make sure you mark it so you know exactly how it goes back together.

You want the center piece approximately 1/8” to 3/16” wider than the iron.

Here is the iron I’ve chosen for this plane. The chip breaker is one that I made. I had made it for an infill and must have decided on another direction, so it seems to be the perfect fit for this plane.

A Hock iron is another option I’ve used with great success.

The groove is to accept the cap screw.

I decided to make this with a vintage iron and chip breaker, just to show the groove. I forgot to make this groove once until after it was glued up. Believe me, before is easier. I’ve also made this groove with a router and table, but my router table is set up for plane totes, and I’ll need that soon, so a sharp chisel seemed quicker.

A quick guick cut with the dovetail saw.

A sanded a little “flat” on the end of the front piece. I don’t like the mouth coming to a true point. It makes it to week and will chip at the very end.

You will find you will be dry fitting over and over again while making this type (or any type I guess) plane.

Next up is a rough out of the wedge. I found a piece of Ash scrap that was the perfect size. It should be the same width as the iron. Note I’m cheating a little here and copying another wedge. Dimensions on this isn’t an exact science, but fitting it to “your” plane is.

Note a little tip at the top. This is not a requirement, but moves the top away from the iron and makes tapping it with the hammer when setting the iron a little easier.

Next up I made the pin. I show here how I did it with a plug cutter, but if you don’t have a plug cutter, I did it with a rasp. I scored the outside (I used the band saw, but any saw would do), then just whittled away until it fit.

So apparently I forgot to take a picture when I marked for the pin holes. Just lay the iron, wedge and pieces together. Leave about an 1/8” extra space so you have room to fit the wedge. Also remember to mark out the whole circle, not just the center so you’re sure you have enough room.

Then dry fit everything again.

Then just glue it up. (note the notches in the top of the sides were in the scrap piece I used, so they were not intentionally put there)

A trick I learned, when gluing the sides, use a pinch of salt to keep the wood from sliding around on you. The granules stick and hold it in place like sand would, but dissolve to nothing from the.glue.