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STANLEY #5 TYPE 4 JACK (MY #5-020918-5)

Type 4      1874-1884

A type 4 Stanley #5. It has been stripped and completely restored
The type 4vwas the last Stanley to not have a lateral adjuster
It has some minor pitting on the sole and sides along with the chip breaker.
The tote is original but I have repaired at the lower section. The knob and tote are still beautiful rosewood.
As with all type 4 planes it has no frog adjuster screw or lateral adjuster, which niether has any use on a jack plane.

Note the blade has some pitting on the back, which will not effect performance for a roughing plane.

This is the perfect plane to start with in fixing those panel glue ups that just didn’t match correctly.

Quote from “

This is the most useful of all the bench planes, and it is a very good plane on which to learn technique. It is the first plane used on rough stock to prepare the surface prior to use of the jointer and smoother. Practically every John Q. Handyman had one of these planes, of one make or another, for household uses such as trimming a door or sash.

Its iron is often ground slighty convex so that a heavy cut can be taken; the edges of it are rounded off so that it doesn’t dig into the wood. Each and every woodworker, including the ‘lectrical toolers of the world, should have this plane.

The plane can serve several roles when one doesn’t have all the other planes in his kit. It can do the surface preparation with its mouth set wide and a deep set to the iron, it can do smoothing with its mouth set narrow and a shallow set to the iron, and it can do jointing, although not as easily as the true jointers, the #7 and #8.”


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A tuned plane from

  • · It will have a sole reasonably flat and co-planar. If you are looking for a sole that has been flatten to some specific specification, this probably will not work for you. With that in mind, I typically will not flatten a jack or scrub plane that will be used as a jack or scrub. It is not required.
  • · The wood. The wood is always original unless otherwise specified. I always try to keep a vintage plane original. If it means spending more time fixing a knob or tote then making a new one, so be it. It may have been refinished however.
  • · The chip breaker is tuned (if applicable). The “breaker” end is polished so the chips will slide easily and the mating surface is checked to ensure a good seat between the chip breaker and the blade.
  • · The blade is hollow ground to approximately a 25 degree bevel and hand honed on a hard Arkansas stone.
  • · The frog face (bench planes) is flattened (again, to a reasonable degree).
  • · The frog seat (bench planes) is checked simply to make sure it seats properly. I very seldom find a need to do anything other than possibly clean them up, make sure there is not an excessive amount of overspray (which is typical on a Millers Falls). Once in a blue moon there will be a need for further work, but not typically.
  • · If required a spacer will be added under the tote bolt to ensure the tote can be tighten.
  • · If the plane is marked as fully restored it means the japanning was bad or missing so it was sand blasted and given no less than 4 coats of Dupli-Color DE1635 Ceramic Ford Semi-Gloss Black Engine Paint.
  • · Most importantly it will have been tested.

I try to take a lot of pictures, so look carefully at them and ask any questions you may have. If you’re not sure about what type of plane you should by for your project, by all means ask.