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STANLEY #4 TYPE 18 SMOOTHER (MY #4-022618-18)

Rosewood knob and tote are original




A tuned plane from will be:

  • · It will have a sole reasonably flat and co-planar. If you are looking for a sole that has been flatten to some specific specification, this probably will not work for you. This is also determined by use. For instance, a jack plane with a cambered blade does not need flattening. For further information see HOW FLAT DOES MY SMOOTHER SOLE NEED TO BE”
  • · The wood. The wood is always original unless otherwise specified. I always try to keep a vintage plane original. If it means spending more time fixing a knob or tote then making a new one, so be it. It may have been refinished however.
  • · The chip breaker is tuned. The “breaker” end is polished so the chips will slide easily and the mating surface is checked to ensure a good seat between the chip breaker and the blade.
  • · The blade is hollow ground to approximately a 25 degree bevel and hand honed on a hard Arkansas stone.
  • · The frog face is flattened (again, to a reasonable degree).
  • · The frog seat is checked simply to make sure it seats properly. I very seldom find a need to do anything other than possibly clean them up, make sure there is not an excessive amount of overspray (which is typical on a Millers Falls). Once in a blue moon there will be a need for further work, but not typically.
  • · If required a spacer will be added under the tote bolt to ensure the tote can be tighten.
  • · If the plane is marked as fully restored it means the japanning was bad or missing so it was sand blasted and given no less than 4 coats of Dupli-Color DE1635 Ceramic Ford Semi-Gloss Black Engine Paint.
  • · Most importantly it will have been tested.  For further information do a search for  bench plane restoration guide part 1

I try to take a lot of pictures, so look carefully at them and ask any questions you may have. If you’re not sure about what type of plane you should by for your project, by all means ask.

US shipments only