I while ago I picked up what I believe is a MATHIESON copy of a shoulder plane. I decided to copy the copy.

Here is a Mathieson Guide

And an image of the Mathieson Shoulder plane here.

  • Sides are 1/8″ steel
  • Lower inside is 1/2″ steel (making the sole metal)
  • Pins are 1/4″ brass rod
  • Infill and wedge is rosewood

I ordered this metal from Enco. 1/2″ thick for the center, and 1/8″ thick for the sides.
Here is the Enco stock numbers.

  • 415-1701 1/2 X 2 1/2 X 24 LOW CARBON FLAT STOCK
  • 415-0221 1/8 X 5 X 24 LOW CARBON FLAT STOCK

I’ve had this bandsaw for a long time. I don’t remember where I got it, but its extremely handy, but if you don’t have one, a hacksaw will work as well.

IMG_20150917_070130604

 

Note the marks for the escapement is laid out but not cut yet in this image. Once the escapement is cut and the plane assembled, the wedge can be fitted. In thi image it is rough out large for final fitting later.

This point it crucial: you must get the mouth opening correct. This will depend on the angle, the thickness of the blade and other factors. I lay this out and mark it. You want to error on to small of an opening because the bottom can be milled up. Milling up will open the mouth. When I made this, I did not yet have my milling machine, so milling would have meant a belt sander. I wanted it right on.

Put the sides together along with the back bedding. Once that was bolted together I slid the front sole piece in, use a clamp to hold it, and did another dry fit with the cutter.

Note further down I mention I used the cutter from the original shoulder plane. That was thicker than the blade I made. Its best to make the blade first.

IMG_20150917_074829173

Cut the parts as shown. The total width will need to be the width of your plane. In this case, we have 1/2″ center, and 2 sides 1/8″ each for a 3/4″ shoulder plane.

IMG_20150917_082123918_HDR

IMG_20150917_084132299_HDR

I dry fit with bolts. The take the bolts out and peen the brass rod.

A look at this build shows some more on peening the rods.

IMG_20150918_132234742

IMG_20150918_132250513

IMG_20150918_132310826

I was a bit concerned about the space between these joints, but so far my concerns have been unfounded. The blade protects it enough no shavings ever hit it.

IMG_20150918_132310826 - Copy

This was rough cut one each individual side. Once fitted together I filed it smooth and even.

Reem the holes from both sides. The taper helps hold the plane together. When you peen the rods, it expands the metal to form a wedge.

IMG_20150919_084656022

IMG_20150919_084712932

Additional pictures on peening can be seen here.

I leave the ends long until it’s together and cut it all at once to ensure it’s even.

IMG_20150919_091334193

 

IMG_20150919_103749552

The bedded angle on this plane is 12 degrees.

demeensions

Final fitting of the wedge should take it to slightly above the top edge if the bevel.

IMG_20160207_084116380

IMG_20160207_083837674_HDR

IMG_20160207_084058434

IMG_20160207_083926297_HDR

IMG_20160207_084026357_HDR

IMG_20150919_104011157

IMG_20150919_132145505

IMG_20150919_135806029IMG_20150919_142153475

IMG_20150919_141651449

Notice the wedge slides down a little to far. That’s because I used the blade out of the original plane as I was making the plane. Then I made a new blade out of an old planer blade. It was thinner metal, so the wedge goes in a little to far. Eventually I’ll find a thicker blade, or make a wider wedge. Lesson learned.

IMG_20150919_142513033